Christmas Dinner, 2017

Appetizers

Pancetta Crisps with Goat Cheese and Pear - F&L

Main Course

Leek salad with persimmons and almonds - T&J

Root Vegetable Gratin - J&K

Beef Roast with Yorkshire Pudding - C&C

Dessert

Buche de Noel - Z&K, unless I run out of energy, in which case, it will be something else chocolate, probably flourless chocolate cake

Buche De Noel

BÛCHE DE NOËL

Courtesy of Cook's Illustrated

Ingredients:

Dark Chocolate Ganache: 
3/4 cup heavy cream
2 Tbs unsalted butter
6 oz high-quality semisweet or bittersweet chocolate, chopped
1 Tbs cognac (may use brandy, amaretto or any chosen liqueur)

Espresso-Marscapone Cream Filling: 
1/2 cup heavy cream
2 tsp espresso powder (instant espresso)
6 Tbs confectioners' sugar (1-1/2 oz)
16 oz marscapone cheese (2 cups)

Roulade:
1/4 cup unbleached all-purpose flour (about 1-1/4 oz) plus more for dusting
6 oz high-quality semisweet or bittersweet chocolate, finely chopped
2 Tbs cold unsalted butter, cut into two pieces
2 Tbs cold water
1/4 cup high-quality Dutch-process cocoa (3/4 oz) sifted, plus more for dusting
1/8 tsp table salt
6 large eggs, separated and at room temperature
1/3 cup granulated sugar (2-1/3 oz)
1 tsp pure vanilla extract
1/8 tsp cream of tartar

Method
For Dark Chocolate Ganache: Bring cream and butter to simmer in a small saucepan over medium high heat. Place chocolate in the bowl of food processor fitted with steel blade. With the machine running, gradually add hot cream and cognac through feed tube; process until smooth and thick (about 3 minutes). Scrape down sides of bowl once or twice during processing. Transfer the ganache to a medium bowl and let it stand at room temperature for about 1 hour, until thickened and spreadable (about the consistency of soft icing.) If the ganache has not quite set by the time you need to use it, you can place it in the refrigerator for a few minutes to hasten the thickening. 

For Espresso-Marscapone Cream: Bring cream to simmer in a small saucepan over high heat. Remove from the heat and stir in espresso powder and confectioners' sugar; cool slightly. With rubber spatula, beat marscapone in medium bowl until softened. Gently whisk in cooled cream mixture until combined. Cover with plastic wrap and refrigerate until ready to use.

 For Roulade: Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position and heat oven to 400°F. Spray an 18 x 12-inch rimmed baking sheet (professional half-sheet pan) with nonstick cooking spray. Cover the bottom of the pan with parchment paper trimmed to fit and spray parchment with nonstick cooking spray as well. Dust baking sheet with flour to coat all surfaces evenly, and tap out excess. Set pan aside.

Bring 2 inches of water to a low simmer in a small saucepan over medium heat. Combine chocolate, butter, and water in a small heatproof bowl and cover tightly with plastic wrap. Set bowl over simmering pan; reduce heat to medium-low and heat until butter is almost completely melted and chocolate pieces are glossy, have lost definition, and are fully melted around the edges of the bowl (about 15 minutes). Do not stir or let water in the saucepan come to a boil. Remove bowl from the heat, unwrap, and stir until smooth and glossy. While chocolate is melting, sift together cocoa, flour and salt into a small bowl and set aside.

In the bowl of a standing mixer, beat egg yolks at medium-high speed until just combined, about 15 seconds. With mixer running, add half of the granulated sugar. Continue to beat, scraping down the sides of the bowl as necessary until yolks are pale yellow and mixture falls in a thick ribbon when beaters are lifted (about 8 minutes). Add vanilla and beat to combine, scraping down bowl once, about 30 seconds. If you have a second clean bowl for your mixer, just set the yolks aside and switch to your clean bowl. Wash and dry your beaters well. If you do not have a second mixer bowl, transfer the yolk mixture to a medium clean bowl and wash and dry your mixer bowl and beaters well. There can be no trace of yolks or fats left on the bowl or beaters to whip a successful meringue in the next step.

 In the clean bowl with clean beaters, beat egg whites and cream of tartar at medium speed until foamy (about 30 seconds). With mixer running, add about 1 tsp of the remaining sugar. Continue beating until soft peaks form (about 40 seconds). Gradually add remaining sugar and beat until egg whites are glossy, supple and hold stiff peaks when the beaters are lifted (about 1 minute longer). Do not over beat. If whites look dry and granular, they are over beaten. While whites are beating, stir slightly cooled chocolate mixture into egg yolks. When whites are beaten, stir 1/4 of the beaten whites into the chocolate and yolk mixture with a rubber spatula to lighten it. Fold in the remaining whites gently until almost no streaks of white remain. Sprinkle the dry ingredients over the egg and chocolate mixture and fold in quickly but gently to incorporate smoothly.

Pour batter into prepared pan; using offset icing spatula and working quickly, smooth surface and spread batter into pan corners. Bake in preheated oven until the center of the cake springs back when touched lightly with your finger (about 8 - 10 minutes); rotate pan halfway through baking time. Cool cake in the pan on a wire rack for 5 minutes.

While cake is cooling, lay a clean (non-terry) kitchen towel over a clean and dry work surface, and sift 1 to 2 Tbs of cocoa powder over the towel. With your hands, rub cocoa powder into the towel. Run a paring knife around the edges of the pan to loosen the cake; invert cake onto towel and peel off parchment.

 Immediately roll cake and towel together into a jelly roll shape, starting at a long side. Let cake cool, rolled, for 15 minutes, then unroll cake and towel. Remove Espresso-Marscapone Cream filling from the refrigerator while cake is cooling. Using an offset spatula, immediately spread the filling over the unrolled cake almost to the edges. Re-roll cake gently but snugly around the filling. Set a large sheet of parchment paper on an overturned rimmed baking sheet and set the roulade seam-side down on top of the pan. Trim both ends of cake on the diagonal, reserving cut pieces. Arrange cut ends next to the main roulade to form stumps on the log.   Spread ganache over roulade with a small icing spatula, leaving ends of the log and stumps exposed. Use a fork to make wood-grain striations on the surface of the ganache before it has set. Refrigerate cake, uncovered, on baking sheet to slightly set icing (about 20 minutes.)

When ready to serve, carefully slide 2 wide metal spatulas under cake and transfer it to a serving platter.  Sift yule log lightly with confectioners' sugar. Serve within 2 hours. The roulade is best served at room temperature.

 Serves 8 - 10

 Cook's Illustrated Notes: Make the ganache, then the filling, then the cake while the ganache is setting up. The cake can be baked, filled and rolled, but not iced, then wrapped in plastic wrap and refrigerated for up to 24 hours. If you make the roulade for use the next day, do not make the ganache until you are ready to finish assembling the cake.

Yorkshire Pudding

Yorkshire Pudding

Prepare the batter ahead of time (it can rest several hours), but cook these after the roast comes out of the oven, while it rests.

Ingredients
6 large eggs
1.5 cup milk (equal quantity of milk to your measured eggs)
1.5 cup flour (equal quantity of all purpose/plain flour to measured eggs)
Large pinch of salt
3 tbsp beef dripping or vegetable oil (or drippings from other roast meat)

Method

Heat the oven to the highest temperature possible, however, do not exceed 450°F or the fat may burn.

Pour the eggs and milk into a large mixing bowl and add the pinch of salt. Whisk thoroughly with an electric hand beater or hand whisk. Leave to stand for 10 minutes. Gradually sift the flour into the milk and egg mixture, again using an electric hand beater or hand-whisk to create a lump free batter resembling thick cream.

Leave the batter to rest in the kitchen for a minimum of 30 minutes, longer if possible - up to several hours.

Place 1/2 tsp dripping or vegetable oil into your a 12-hole muffin tin and heat in the oven until the fat is smoking.

Give the batter another good whisk adding 2 tbsps of cold water and fill a third of each section of the tin with batter and return quickly to the oven. Leave to cook until golden brown approx 20 minutes.

Repeat the last step again until all the batter is used up.

Yorkshire Puddings do not reheat well, becoming brittle and dry.

Roast Beef with Optional Horseradish Sauce

Ingredients
One 4- to 6-pound beef eye round roast
Salt/Pepper

Method
Let meat stand at cool room temperature about 45 minutes before roasting.  Preheat oven to 450°F.

Put roast on a metal rack in a roasting pan (fat side up) and sprinkle generously with salt and pepper.

Add about 1/4 inch water to bottom of pan and put roast in middle of oven. Immediately reduce temperature to 350°F and roast meat until an instant-read thermometer inserted in center registers 120°F. Cooking time will vary—it will be anywhere from 10 to 20 minutes per pound—depending on size of roast. (120°F for rare, 140 for medium-rare.  Internal temperature of meat will rise about 5°F as roast stands.)

Let roast stand, loosely covered with foil, 10 to 15 minutes before slicing.

Horseradish Sauce (optional)
Ingredients:
1 cup sour cream
1/4 cup grated peeled fresh horseradish, or prepared horseradish
1 tablespoon fresh lemon juice

Method:
 Stir together sour cream, horseradish, lemon juice, 1/4 teaspoon salt, and pepper to taste in a small bowl. Serve beef with horseradish sauce

Root Vegetable Gratin

From Smitten Kitchen - visit the page for lovely photos and comments from people who tried the recipe


Ingredients
Olive oil
1 large onion, sliced (1 1/2 cups)
2 cups (1/4-inch-sliced) fennel, top and core, if thick, removed
3 cloves garlic, minced (1 tablespoon)
1 pound sweet potatoes, peeled and sliced 1/4-inch thick
1 pound celery root, peeled and sliced 1/4-inch thick
1 pound Yukon gold potatoes, peeled and sliced 1/4-inch thick
1 cup heavy cream
2 cups chicken or vegetable stock
2 cups grated gruyere cheese (6 ounces with rind)
2 teaspoons minced fresh thyme leaves
Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 1/2 cups coarse fresh breadcrumbs or panko
2 to 3 tablespoons melted butter

Method
Heat your oven to 350°F. Butter a 13×9-inch deep baking dish.

Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large deep (ideally 12-inch) saute pan over medium heat and add the onions and fennel. Cooking, tossing occasionally, until lightly browned and tender, about 10 minutes. Add the garlic and cook for one minute more.

 Meanwhile, in the largest bowl you own, combine the onion mixture with remaining vegetables, cream, stock, cheese, thyme, 1 tablespoon kosher salt and 1 1/2 teaspoons black pepper. Pour mixture into prepared dish and spread until even. Mix breadcrumbs and butter until evenly coated and distribute evenly over top of dish.

 Bake 1 1/2 hours uncovered, or until vegetables are very tender when tested with a small knife and the top is browned and bubbly. Allow to set for 15 minutes at room temperature and serve hot.

Make Ahead

To make this ahead of time,  assemble and bake 1 to 3 days ahead and store in fridge.  Let set on the counter for an hour before going in the oven, bake as described above.

Leek Salad with Persimmons and Almonds

A French inspired dish from Food and Wine

Ingredients

8 medium leeks, white and tender green parts only, halved lengthwise
3 cups chicken stock or low-sodium broth
2 tablespoons unsalted butter
2 bay leaf
2 thyme sprigs plus 2 teaspoons chopped thyme leaves
Kosher salt
2 tablespoons Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons lemon juice
2 tablespoons cider vinegar
3/4 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1 cup crumbled Greek feta cheese
4 ripe Fuyu persimmons, peeled and cut into thin wedges
4 cups baby arugula
4 tablespoons crushed marcona almonds

Method

Set the leeks cut side up in a large skillet. Add the stock, butter, bay leaf, thyme sprig and a pinch of salt. Cover tightly and simmer over low heat until tender, about 30 minutes. Using a slotted spoon, transfer the leeks to a platter and drizzle with 2 tablespoons of the cooking liquid. Let cool completely.

In a medium bowl, whisk the mustard with the chopped thyme, lemon juice and vinegar. Gradually whisk in the olive oil and season with salt. Scatter the feta over the leeks and drizzle lightly with some of the dressing. Add the persimmons and arugula to the remaining dressing in the bowl, season lightly with salt and toss. Mound the salad over the leeks, garnish with the almonds and serve.

Make Ahead
The leeks and dressing can be refrigerated separately in airtight containers for up to 2 days. Return to room temperature before serving.

Pancetta Crisps with Goat Cheese and Pear

From Bon Appetit

Ingredients

32 thin slices pancetta
32 teaspoons soft fresh goat cheese (aprox 10 oz)
4 very ripe small pears, halved, cored, cut into 1/4-inch-thick slices
Fresh thyme leaves

Method

Preheat oven to 450°F. Place pancetta slices in single layer on large rimmed baking sheet. Sprinkle with pepper. Bake until golden, about 10 minutes. Using spatula, slide pancetta crisps onto platter. Top each with 1 teaspoon goat cheese and 1 pear slice. Sprinkle with thyme and serve.